I’m in Hamburg this week, and even just in bars and cafés they serve this very tasty salad.

GOOD CHEAT: It’s possible to make this salad without bacon and red onion (and all the frying involved) and the chives, by simply substituting all three for five or six chopped spring onions (including an inch/couple of cms or so of the green).

FOR EXTRA-SPECIAL: The French-Canadian cook, Madame Benoit, slices the boiled potatoes while still hot and then pours a tin of hot consommé (use a tin) over them, then covers and leaves them for twenty minutes. Then she drains and mixes with mayonnaise.


Recipe for German potato salad


For 4

  • 8-10 waxy salad potatoes (900g/2 lbs) (Pink Fir Apple are nice)
  • 1 red onion – chopped finely
  • 8 rashers of bacon – chopped
  • 2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar
  • 4 tbsp olive oil plus more for frying
  • generous grinds of salt, pepper and, slightly less generously, of nutmeg
  • 2 beef stock cubes
  • 1 teaspoon grainy mustard – or alternatively horseradish
  • chives – ideally fresh – dry if desperate or parsley
  • capers also go well
  1. Boil the potatoes for about 20 minutes in water in which you have dissolved the stock cubes
  2. Fry the bacon and the onion until the onion is transparent and the bacon cooked
  3. Add one tbsp. vinegar and then take the frying pan off the heat
  4. Mix up the dressing by mixing together the rest of the vinegar, the olive oil, salt and pepper, and the mustard
  5. Drain the potatoes and make a broad attempt to get rid of a lot of the skin using a prep-a-lot
  6. Slice the potatoes and mix in everything else